Showing posts with label Vintage Life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vintage Life. Show all posts

Friday, December 16, 2011

Haslam Dresscutting System



I purchased The Haslam System of Dresscutting on Ebay over the summer but am just now getting around to taking a good look at it. 

This system is a comprehensive pattern drafting program used to create garments based on one's specific body measurements, supposedly enabling one to create vintage fashions custom-fit to your body.  The system uses 14 body measurements.  Seems rather similar to the Lutterloh System, I think.

Directions say to first create your foundation pattern using the instructions at the beginning of the book and the Haslam Chart. The foundation pattern is your "base" pattern and is used to create the rest of the pattern designs in the book. Once the foundation pattern is complete, you can create custom-fitted patterns for any of the garments in the book.

There are more than 80 Books of Draftings in the Haslam System, from the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s and 1950s. I purchased the 1950s book along with the system.

I have my chart assembled and hope to begin on my foundation pattern after the first of the year.  I will be thrilled if this system works as well as promised.

The system and books are available on ebay.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

For The Particular Mother


Once again, from the April 1917 issue of Good Housekeeping.  And once again, I adore the hats!  Though I do particularly favor the outfit in the very center of the advertisement as well.

And I find it rather refreshing to see clothing that is sensibly styled for "small" daughters.  Which, in my opinion, is any female aged 2 through 15.  I get so disgusted when I look at the advertisements for "children's" clothing in modern day magazines.  Push up bikini tops, low cut jeans, barely there mini skirts, etc.  And this is being marketed to girls who are 8-12 years old!

I don't wish to offend anyone who disagrees with me, but, I'm sorry, children should dress like children - not a 30 year old! My momma and daddy had a rule that any child of theirs would submit to "inspection" before leaving the house, whether we were going to a football game, a school dance, or a slumber party at a friend's house.  Daddy's biggest gripes were unpressed clothing and ragged blue jeans.  Momma's biggest concern was the length of our dresses and skirts.  Many times my sisters and I were told to kneel on our knees in the family room.  If, while kneeling, our skirt/dress hems didn't touch the floor, back upstairs we were sent and told to change into something more appropriate.

Obviously, I don't have a daughter so I don't need to worry about dress lengths, push up bikini tops, etc.  But I have laid down the law to Pierce on his appearance at times.  Saggy jeans, with the crotch hanging down to the knees, are absolutely not allowed!  I told him if he wanted everyone to see his underwear, he could just forgo pants altogether!  T-shirts, ball caps, etc. with inappropriate slogans are also forbidden in this house.  My rule is:  if he wouldn't say it in front of his grandmother or our pastor, it will not be worn!  Thankfully, as he grows older, he is in complete agreement with me on the subject of clothing.

Sadly though, my attitude is not the norm in our area.  I cringe when I see what some of Pierce's acquaintances are wearing when I see them about town (and in Houses of Worship as well)! I may be out of sync with the times and hopelessly out of fashion.  But you know what? I don't really care!

Monday, June 6, 2011

The Newest Fashions (of 1917)


I found this advertisement in the April 1917 edition of Good Housekeeping Magazine.  The hat on the bottom left especially caught my eye.  How I wish hats were still a part of everyday fashion.  I love hats and wear them at every available opportunity.

Notice the heading?  "Good Housekeeping Readers May Now Get the Newest Fashions Direct from Wanamaker's"? Wanamaker's was the first department store in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and one of the first department stores in the entire United States. 

John Wanamaker, the founder of the store that bears his name, was unable to join the U.S. Army during the Civil War because he suffered from a persistent cough. Having been rejected from war duty, he ventured into business with his brother-in-law, Nathan Brown. In 1861, they founded a men's clothing store in Philadelphia called Oak Hall. Wanamaker carried on the business alone after Brown's death in 1868.

Wanamaker first gave thought of how he would run a store on new principles when, as a youth, a merchant refused his request to exchange a purchase. A practicing Christian, he chose not to advertise on Sundays. His retail advertisements—the first to be copyrighted beginning in 1874—were factual, and promises made in them were kept. Wanamaker guaranteed the quality of his merchandise in print, allowed his customers to return purchases for a cash refund and offered the first restaurant (The Great Crystal Tea Room) to be located inside a department store.  Wanamaker also invented the price tag and held the first ever "white sale".

His employees were to be treated respectfully by management (including not being scolded in public), and John Wanamaker & Company offered its employees access to free medical care, recreational facilities, profit sharing plans, and pensions—long before these types of benefits were considered standard in corporate employment.

In 1910, Wanamaker constructed a new building for his retail business. The new store, built in the Florentine style with granite walls by Chicago architect Daniel Burnham, had 12 floors (9 for retail), numerous galleries and two lower levels totaling nearly two million square feet.  The store was dedicated by President William Howard Taft on December 30, 1911 and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is designated as a US National Historic Landmark.

File:The Grand Court.jpg
The Grand Court

File:The Great Crystal Tea Room at John Wanamaker.jpg
The Great Crystal Tea Room
After John Wanamaker's death in 1922 the business carried on under Wanamaker family ownership.  Rodman Wanamaker, John's son, enhanced the reputation of the stores by offering imported luxuries from around the world. He died shortly before the Great Depression and after his death in 1928, the stores (managed for the family by a trust) continued to thrive for a time.  However, over time, Wanamaker's lost business to other retail chains in the Philadelphia market. By the end of the 20th century in the shopping-mall era, there were 16 Wanamaker's outlets, but the chain was absorbed into Hecht's (now known as Macy's) in 1995.

Wouldn't it be lovely to time travel and be able to shop at Wanamaker's then take tea in the Great Crystal Tea Room (while wearing a fabulous hat, of course)?

Monday, April 18, 2011

Anna's Fig Cake


I found this advertisement, which contains a recipe for "Anna's Fig Cake" in a 1918 edition of Good Housekeeping magazine.  I haven'the made the cake yet, but I fully intend to do so this week.  Although I believe I will use another type of frosting.

Anna's Fig Cake

1 1/2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking powder
3 egg yolks
3 teaspoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla

Frosting

2 eggs whites beaten stiff with 4 tablespoons powdered sugar

Filling

1 pound of figs, finely chopped
1 "teacup" of water
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

All cooked to smoothness

Thursday, March 24, 2011

An Ideal Summer Home


I found this advertisement in the April 1918 volume of Good Housekeeping magazine and immediately fell in love with the house.  Only $1100 - which equals roughly $16,000 today.  Only 12 cents for a complete catalog!


"Two men can erect this house in three days; not even a nail to buy, it can be unassembled and put up again any number of times"

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Spiritual Value of Housekeeping

Grandmother's House
Photo courtesy of the Photographer

"Everyone enjoys a well managed house, well cooked meals served on time, heating apparatus, lighting fixtures and window shades that work - in short a well padded life that gives the minimum of jolts.  What is not so generally recognized is the spiritual ministry of these conditions. The atmosphere produced, like all other atmospheres, is experienced rather than seen. . .  

Orderly rooms make for orderly thinking and orderly manners.  A well regulated house thus ministers to a fundamental spiritual need.  The house is our families world - where we are most truly at home.  A well administered household frees the spirit of every one in it. . .

And what of the housekeeper herself whose activities bear so intimate a relation to the inner lives of others. Her work is considered narrowing.  However, the housekeepers work presents more than the usual opportunities for self expression.  A painter is able to put upon canvas the thing he sees in his soul and we call it "art".  When a woman is able to achieve in her housekeeping a similar expression of her ideals, why should it be called drudgery?

The housekeepers work is a ministry - and that she knows.  Her deeper comfort is that her work, when rightly done, makes her life richer and she can afford to give herself generously and joyously to her work. For by means of it she adds to the life of those about her and her soul gets its message over into the souls of others."

- Good Housekeeping Magazine, April 1918

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Table Talk Magazine

Breakfast Time
Breakfast Time
Courtesy of The Photographer

I purchased many (MANY) vintage magazines on ebay as a Christmas gift to myself and have been slowly perusing through them.  Today I was browsing through "Table Talk", which billed itself as "the national food" and "international culinary" magazine.  Appropriately enough, it was the March edition.  From 1918.

March Menus - A Week's Sampling

Saturday Breakfast
Oranges
Bacon and Potato Omelet
Corn Muffins
Coffee

Saturday Luncheon
Banana and Nut Salad
Hot Biscuit
Currant Cake
Tea

Saturday Dinner
Cream of Lettuce Soup
Lamb chops
Stuffed potatoes
Peas
Steamed pudding with vanilla sauce
Coffee

Sunday Breakfast
Baked Apples
Baked Beans
Brown Bread
Fish Balls
Coffee

Sunday Dinner
Chicken Pie
Sweet potato croquettes
Cauliflower
Cheese and red pepper salad
Coffee ice cream with marshmallow sauce
Snow cake
Coffee

Sunday Supper
Spinach omelet
Currant buns
Preserves
Gold cake
Coffee

Monday Breakfast
Stewed apricots
Uncooked cereal
Omelet
Rolls
Coffee

Monday Luncheon
Baked bean soup
Toasted brown bread
Applesauce
Gingerbread
Tea

Monday Dinner
Beef a la mode
Mashed potatoes
Red cabbage
Nut pie
Coffee

Tuesday Breakfast
Bananas
Cereal
Fried fish
Biscuit
Coffee

Tuesday Luncheon
Bread griddle cakes
Tea
Cupcakes

Tuesday Dinner
Shepherds Pie
Green beans
Squash
Fruit jelly
Coffee

Wednesday Breakfast
Grapes
Cereal
Toast
Bacon
Coffee

Wednesday Luncheon
Cream of tomato soup
Muffins
Preserves
Tea

Wednesday Dinner
Boiled mutton with caper sauce
Mashed potatoes
Turnips
Lima beans
Hawaiian salad
Coffee

Thursday Breakfast
Creamed dried beef
Apples
Baked potato
Rolls
Coffee

Thursday Luncheon
Sausages
Muffins
Oranges
Cake
Tea

Thursday Dinner
Onion soup
Scalloped mutton
Potato croquettes
Baked squash
Tossed salad with French dressing
Apple pie
Coffee

Friday Breakfast
Cereal with figs
Buttered toast
Coffee

Friday Luncheon
Rice with cheese
Fruit cake
Cocoa

Friday Dinner
Tomato soup
Hamburger steaks
Carrots and peas in potato cases
Watercress
Baked rice pudding
Coffee